Punk, art and fashion

I was thinking about punk fashion after discovering some old patches that I made almost 20 years ago. This was before you could jump online and order a bunch of patches and shirts with your PayPal number and have your gear arrive in no time. The local skate shop occasionally had a few good shirts (3 of which I still own and can barely fit into), but most of the time there was nothing and maybe a catalog from Electric Chair was floating around so people could order a shirt or some boots since there really wasn’t too much of that stuff in the town I grew up in then.

You could easily buy a leather jacket though. A boring, plain black piece of slaughtered cow flesh with zippers and a buckle. I bought mine with the proceeds of my first paycheck and started plotting how I was going to decorate it. My first and best advice when painting a leather jacket (Do kids even wear them anymore? If not, they will), is to use acrylic paint. Don’t use anything with enamel that can harden and flake off prematurely. You can also use a very small amount of water to thin out the viscosity of your paint. A dry brush is good for designs that need some dimensional rendering. After painting my own, I eventually ended up getting a reputation as someone who’d nicely paint your jacket for a few bucks. My final version has a Crucifix back with Chaos UK, Final Conflict, Nausea, Discharge, Antischism, Assuck, and Conflict song lyrics to round out the dorsal area. I’ve painted countless skulls on others’ jackets and more phrases and slogans than I can remember. I was particularly proud of a Rudimentary Peni motif, and did a bunch of things from all over the place: Rancid, Varukers, Urge Overkill, Sisters of Mercy, CRASS, The Residents, Corrosion of Conformity, and others. Attach a thousand spikes and badges and all is complete.

Once leather seemed to fall out of fashion, for me anyway, I ditched it for fabric. My regimented animal activism helped that along. At the time, it wasn’t really a notion to get a silkscreen setup and produce shirts, patches, record covers and stickers. Since I had the artistic ability and time on my hands, I made my own custom patches. You can do this by getting some decent thickness fabric and smoothing a layer of acrylic paint onto it with a window film squeegee. Let it dry and it’s like painting on…leather. You can also use this technique if you want stiff, armored arms, lapels or cuffs  – which also helps in attaching your spikes n’ screws and keeping them on. A cool effect is to lay down a black layer onto an olive green or grey background leaving a quarter-to-half inch of the fabric exposed. Eventually it will fray and look crusty as hell. I hand-painted Nausea, Resist and Subvert backpatches. I eventually added color. I did a 3 or 4 color Sedition patch, a blue grey and black Venom patch, 3-color Filth backpatch and a ton of logos for Amebix, Excrement of War, Antisect, Conflict, Doom, Icons of Filth, Neurosis, etc. That stuff was fun.

Then of course there was the t-shirt. It has always been a popular billboard of expression and probably will be that way forever. I eventually learned how to screen my own shirts by stretching screenprint material over the build-yourself wooden frame parts you can get at an art supply store for a fraction of what you’d pay for real screens. Ironically, I was working at a screenprinting facility at the time that was producing 20-foot wide screens for signage which helped me not even in the slightest degree. I did punk shirts the old-fashioned way, and just used dark permanent markers on light colored t-shirts. I think they came out pretty well with a few 2-color Citizen’s Arrest, Antischism, Downcast and Discharge shirts. I also put together a nice Contropotere-style shirt black on red.

I like just plain black t-shirts and jackets now. Go figure.

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7 responses to “Punk, art and fashion

  1. thx for the comment. i do still have a working screen Giuda screen so making you a shirt shouldn’t be a problem. 10 bucks would prolly cover a the blank shirt and shipping to most places in the US. If interested shoot me a line at the above email and we can work out the rest of the details. most of the printing i do is for myself and my friends so i would be happy to have someone rocking one of my prints in a different city.

    cheers
    -Will

  2. How dya get the patches so neat?
    And I’m 16 and I wear painted leather jackets to answer your question
    Theres nowhere round here to buy decent patches and I dont have a card so I was thinking of making my own

    • To get the art neat, flatten the acrylic base paint and water down your art paint a bit with water. As for neatness, practicing art every day and being studious with the original art. Americans love patches.

      As for studs and stuff, I haven’t worn ’em in years, save for a belt on rare occasion. I’m sure there’s a UK distributor for the spikes – y’all started it after all. 🙂

  3. And do you know anywhere I could get cone studs for cheap if I use a mates card, all the sites I go on are American and I’m in the UK

  4. I love your work. Your dedication to the scenes and your open evolution in relation to them is admirable. I was wondering would you be willing to make or sell some your stuff displayed?

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